Thad, our resident JDM tackle expert and land based whipper:
So you’re checking out Hawaii Nearshore Fishing, which is loaded with useful information on light lures, and wonder to yourself, what kind of gear should I be using to fish lures like those? Here’s a short guide on some of the gear I use to whip these small lures in the 10 to 30 gram range, which equates to approximately 3/8 to 1 oz. The gear I like to use is based on my own personal experiences and preferences – it’s what I’m comfortable using. Others may have their own techniques which are just as effective for them.
Rod
I prefer to use rods in the 9 to 10 foot range with 9’6″ rods being my favorite. I fish mostly shoreline fish areas and often walk the shallow flats and will walk out to the break on low tides if conditions permit. Longer rods will tend to give you better casting distances. I find 9’6″ rods to be the perfect length for me because, in the event the line should tangle on the tip of the rod while I’m out walking the reef flats, I can still reach it without having to dunk my reel in the water – a big no no if your reel has no water seal. Rod action, or taper that I prefer is regular to regular fast. I find this action allows me to load up on the cast so the rod does a lot of the work in getting the light lures out. I try to find rods rated for lures anywhere in the 5 to 35 gram range and avoid using lures at or above the rod rating.
Reel
I tend to use mostly Shimano reels in the 3000 to 4000 sizes with the 4000 being my go-to. If you decide to use other brands such as Daiwa, be aware that the number sizing is not the same between brands. A Daiwa 4000 reel will be bigger and heavier than a Shimano 4000. I also prefer high speed reels with a gear ratio of 6.0:1 or faster.
Line
I use braided mainline for its high strength relative to its small diameter. It will allow you to get maximum casting distance without sacrificing strength. It also won’t deteriorate as quickly as monofilament, which usually needs to be changed regularly depending on how often you fish. Monofilament will deteriorate and lose strength from sunlight and even from fumes if stored in a closet with chemicals. The drawback to braid is its higher cost and low abrasion resistance. I use 20lb braid on my Shimano 4000 reel and 10lb braid on my 3000.
Leader
My preference is to use 25lb fluorocarbon leader but I will use 40lb on occasion if I’m seeing a lot of big kaku in the water. Monofilament leader will also work and is much cheaper. I use a little less than two arm lengths of leader and connect it to the mainline with an FG knot. This will allow the knot to be just below the bottom guide when casting. Some people have no issues with longer leaders which wrap the spool a few times but I find it decreases my casting distance considerably. The JDM rods I use tend to have much smaller guides so having the FG knot between the bottom guide and reel will give the knot a smooth, straight-line path through the guides. If you’re not yet comfortable tying an FG knot, you can also use a swivel to connect the leader and mainline, but you will need to shorten the leader since the knot will not and should not be cast through the guides.
I tie a Tactical Angler (TA) clip to the end of the leader using an improved clinch knot or an Orvis knot. Orvis knots are very strong and the tag end points towards the lure so there’s less chance of catching limu on it but the knot can be difficult to tie on thicker lines. The TA clip is strong and makes it easy to switch out lures in seconds. I like to switch lures constantly when I whip so I can’t fish without a TA clip. I experimented using a small swivel between the leader and clip but found that the extra weight often affected the action of the light lures. None of the lures I use spin in the water so I don’t need the swivel.
So there you have it. My preferred set up for whipping small lures, small jigs, and bubble with fly or grub. It works for me and fits the style of fishing I enjoy the most.
Editors Note: No wonder Thad outfishes me, his rod is 1.5ft longer than mine, and his leader is twice as long as what I use!
Wow. You use a 9.5 foot rod? I tried those but I just stumble with those. I use a very short rod compared to you at 7.5 feet. I use the size 4000 Shimano reels too and find them superior over any other brands. As for the braid, do the fish care about visibility and even though braid is more expensive than mono, do you think it would be worth it for me to make the change to braid?
Thanks, Matt
I’m not a whipper (anymore) and I’m not Thad, but I think I can add some insight here nevertheless. I fish with a fly rod, and not just any fly rod, but a two handed, 11 foot switch rod. And I obviously use a fly line. I don’t know if you’ve ever seen fly line, but it’s much, much, much more visible in the water than braid. The fish that eats the fly is likely to be behind the fly and swimming towards me, and they will usually see the fly before they see my fly line. The ones between me and the fly… well, i don’t worry about those lol…. you’ll ultimately have to weigh the added casting distance and line capacity against the possibility it’ll spook fish.
As for rod length, I wade between 5-10k steps on most of my fishing expeditions, buffeted by waves and over uneven reef. If I can do it with 11 foot rod, I’m sure someone younger and more agile can do it with a 9 foot one 🙂 I think for spin fishing you can get away with a shorter rod when wading or on a boat. From shore, you have casting distance to think about.
Very good insight Jason. Fish normally key in on the lure, not the line pulling the lure, far in front of the leader, yeah?
Unless you cast across the fish and the line falls right into their line of sight, I think they would probably only see the lure and maybe the leader, depending on water clarity. As with a thick heavy fly line I’d be more worried about the lure smacking the water too hard. Just my opinion though.
Jason targets a much more finicky and easily spooked species of fish. Fly fishers have got some skills. He’s right in what he says but what I’m doing doesn’t require his level of skill. I’m just casting around and hoping to get a hit. Lol
You giving me too much credit ?. I do the same thing as whippers when I blind cast and most who know me know that is my preferred style, usually with a two handed rod, and mostly for the reasons you just described. It’s more relaxing since it requires less mental focus than sight fishing.
Oh lol, I didn’t mean I couldn’t cast them. I can cast them, but what I meant was I can’t walk lures with such a long rod like Uncle Thad can. I only use my 9 ft for whipping grubs and such but never to walk lures. For some reason even in open areas I can’t get it to walk straight. Plus the shorter rod has advantages in mangroves or tight quarters. But yeah fly fishing takes a real talented fisherman.
Oh I see, yes 9 foot can be hard to work the lure. Only whipping rods longer than 7-8 ft I used was for menpachi.
I used to whip with a 7ft rod as a kid and thought anything longer was too cumbersome. And yes, held indoors it seems too long, but outdoors, it doesn’t feel that way at all. You can really see the difference the extra length makes on your casting distance. Fish will often hit close to shore or a few feet from you but longer casts will help you cover more ground with less effort. But really, it still comes down to personal preference and I know guys that like shorter rods.
I like the 4000 sized reels but I also use a 3000 and a 2500 reel for my lighter rods when I throw lures under 10g.
Braid was a game changer for me when I switched from mono. 20lb braid typically has a line diameter equivalent to 6lb test mono. This meant longer, smoother casts with strong line, which is very advantageous for throwing light lures. Like Jason mentioned, I don’t feel braid makes much difference in the number of strikes I get vs using mono. If you do make the switch, just be sure to check your braid often for fraying, especially if you fish areas with a lot of coral heads.
Hmm, sounds like it just comes down to casting distance. Yes, I’d love to get to the deep holes that are 15 yards out of my reach. How’s braid with knots though? My spot always has moderate to severe winds. And wow, 20lb is equivalent to 6lb mono. Must mean you can get a lot more line capacity. Have you ever heard of guys with a 20 yard mono leader and the rest be braid? That’s what I’m interested but the constant motion of the knot going through the guides might eventually fray the knot.
I’m assuming you’re talking about wind knots and not the kind you tie (which is also different from mono). Its always a concern but I haven’t had problems with it. Just make sure not to over-fill your spool and the line isn’t packed too loosely. I have heard that its an issue with a particular brand of reel but not Shimano.
I don’t know about 20 yard leaders but others do use long leaders that wrap the spool. Some use the braid under their main mono to give them some extra line but you don’t get the casting benefits of the braid.
I think constant casting of knots will eventually lead to a weakening of any knot on any type of line and depending on its size, possibly some damage to your guides. Just check them regularly while you fish. I use the FG knot to connect the main braid to the leader because of its proven strength and small profile.
Thanks for sharing all this good information.
Great info! Both the article and the comments! Agreed that Braid is a huge game changer, even on the kayak. Just the shear line capacity on smaller reels allows us to pack lighter and still manage larger fish. Thanks again!
Matthew – I don’t think you’re going to get that much more casting distance with 20 lb braid than you are currently getting on your 8-10 lb mono. Add to that the fact that you are going to want a longer leader with braid and your knot will likely be closer to the spool and have to travel through more guides, and that will impact your casting distance as well. Full disclosure – I’m not a fan of braid – no abrasion resistance, wind knots, hard on gear, no stretch (shock absorption), etc. I could go on. I land Salmon over 30 lbs on 12 lb test mono all the time – it’s tougher than many give it credit for. With the increased abrasion resistance, I’m surprised there are not more guys using mono over there considering all the coral/rocks. I would think 12-15 lb mono could handle any species over there except for maybe the larger Ulua. My $.02.
You bring up some good points on the braid vs mono debate. Each has its place and can be better for different styles of fishing. I still use mono when I dunk live or cut baits which don’t require repeated casting.
Here’s my reasons for going with braid for whipping. I used to whip with 8-10lb mono as my go-to when I was a kid – just like Matthew. To me, there is a noticeable difference in casting distance between 20lb braid (equivalent to 6lb mono) vs 8-10lb mono. 8-10lb mono is thicker and tends to have a memory that will work against you on the cast, especially with the lighter lures. Yes, mono will provide shock absorption, but I prefer the sensitivity of braid.
Whether you were to use braid or mono, you will want to run as long a leader as you’re comfortable with due to all our toothy fish in Hawai‘i. This means you will need to connect it to your main line with a swivel or knot. I would much rather have thinner braid running through my guides after the knot passes than 8-10lb mono. And the knot is another benefit to using braid. There are no knots to connect mono main to mono leader that can compare to an FG or PR knot for its slim profile and smoothness when running through the guides. Of course the knot is a moot point if you’re using a swivel to connect the leader.
The rocky shores of Hawai‘i and the low abrasion resistance of braid is a bad combination and that is the very reason for the longer leader. The fish here are often smart enough to dive down and rub the line in the rocks to try and break free. This means we always fight the fish with our lines high and tight. The majority of the abrasion will be within a few feet from the fish which is exactly where the leader should be.
I hope this explains the main reasons why I use braid for whipping and I’m sure many local fishers will mirror them.
It all makes sense – It’s just a preference thing like someone said earlier. I will say that I don’t see a need for a longer leader when running mono main line. Let’s say a 7/8 oz lure with 12-15 lb mono – that should cast plenty far – and 2 feet of 25 lb fluoro just in case a Kaku strikes ahead of the lure. Connect mono to fluoro with a uni to uni or a swivel and there’s no need to cast the connecting knot through the guides as 2 ft is easily castable hanging off the end of the rod tip. Seems like a win-win. I hear you on sensitivity of braid, but why do you need that when retrieving a lure – the strike should be obvious. I prefer the shock absorption so the fish stays pinned when those violent head shakes start. Fun debate. No right or wrong answer and I see pros and cons to each.
I see what you’re saying. I find mono to be more than sufficient but was just wondering on other peoples opinions. Might have to try braid one day. In the spot I fish, there are hardly any coral heads so you could probably land any kine fish unless it gets to the breakers.
First to note I used to use only mono when I was younger and started using braid 2 years ago.
I am a big fan of braid when fishing any sort of artificial lure that requires me to impart an action, especially heavier lures and lures with more resistance like poppers. The increased sensitivity and lack of stretch in braid are actually strengths when working lures, especially fast retrieve top water, because every twitch and motion I make will be transferred almost completely to the lure. In comparison when using mono a large amount of your motion and action is absorbed by the line and only a fraction of it actually reaches the lure.
Typically the longer leaders we use and a light enough initial drag setting is enough shock absorption for hard strikes, and is much better than loss of sensitivity with mono.
And as far as abrasion resistance most abrasion happens on the leader unless you are in an area with a lot sharp coral heads. So far for smaller fish my 15 lb and 20lb braid has held up even the few times it has been dragged across rocks (as long as they weren’t super sharp). I just need to cut the frayed braid and retie after landing the fish.
Ahh, might need to spool with braid and try the lures that don’t “respond” well to mono. Thanks for the idea. Might have to try it later.
Very good point on the the reason for wanting less stretch when working lures. Glad you brought that up Alan. As Matthew mentioned before, I use walking lures a lot. Even with subsurface swimmers, I will add action to the lure with a variety of sweeps or twitches. Its possible to do with mono but not as effectively, especially at a distance.
Thanks for sharing Thad! When I’m whipping shoreline (which is very rare) I find that your same preferred length of 9’6″ is my same preferred length for cast-ability. Just as you mentioned, I share the same experience: Anything longer and I feel as though I can load the rod up to my full casting potential and much shorter I feel like I’m doing too much work.