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You are here: Home / Archives for Jigging

Holoholo: First mahi ever!

December 27, 2020 By Scott 1 Comment

Middle schooler Hunter has gone from shore fisher to diver and now boater in just a couple of years. He shares his first mahi mahi experience.

Hunter:

It was a calm light wind day and I had high hopes of what the ocean would provide on this beautiful morning. Me and my dad headed out to the east side to do some diving and fishing. The boat ramp was packed but luckily we found a stall quickly. Heading out we admired the glassy water and we watched it turn from a harbor green to a deep dark blue.

We dropped down our jigs in 300ft of water and waited for it to hit the bottom. As soon as I closed my bail and stated reeling I immediately get weight on my line. I watched in amazement as I brought up a baby opakapaka. It was a bit small but since we were so deep the fish had pressurized on the way up so we would either keep it or throw it back to let it die. We decided to keep it to experience a small opakapaka’s taste.

We kept jigging and sending down ika and catching larger and smaller opakapaka. Luckily we were able to release most of the smaller ones as they had not “thrown up their stomachs”, and swam away totally fine. An hour went by and I was reeling up an opakapaka. It reached the surface but suddenly fell off the hook. It had died on the way up so we started trying to grab it and swing our boat around when suddenly we heard a splash and saw our opakapaka was no longer there. Assuming it had come back to life we moved on but as I looked away I saw the vibrant blue flash of a school of mahimahi.

With my heart and mind racing I quickly threw out a Yozuri Crystal Minnow. First cast, only 3 followers which didn’t dare to bite the lure. Second cast the whole school was trailing my lure. Finally on the third cast a big splash covered my lure and my reel started screaming like I’ve never heard it scream before. I was on.

It was an effortless fight to say the least. It may have run fast but it had tired out faster than any other fish I’ve seen. We had no gaff so we three pronged it in the head.

After securing the fish we headed in calling it a day not having enough ice to keep the fish fresh. We took it home and filleted it. I am looking forward to enjoying this fish!

Holoholo: Boat jigging tips from a young, committed angler

December 15, 2020 By Scott 8 Comments

With the water so cool now, the offshore pelagic bite has slowed. But bottom fishing and jigging is always productive if you can find the fish. We asked Merik to share his hard-earned boat jigging knowledge with us.

Merik I am an 8th grader in Honolulu HI and an avid fisherman inshore and offshore. In fact I love anything to do with the ocean. One of my favorite types of fishing is vertical jigging, from shore or on a boat. I mainly jig off a boat and it’s one of my favorite things to do.

Uku caught in 100ft of water on Majorcraft Live Bait 60g

Overview

There are a lot of factors that come into play while jigging. Depending on what species you’re targeting, the action and style of your jig will reflect that. There are two main types of jigging that can be done, slow pitch jigging and fast jigging. Certain species like biting a certain style of jig and the way it is worked. Slow pitch jigging represents a dying bait fish, while fast jigging represents a fleeing bait fish. When jigging, especially offshore, the way you work your jig based off the fish you’re targeting and the conditions can depict the amount of fish that hit your jig. Just know that there are no rules that are set in stone while jigging and the main thing is that you enjoy doing it so feel free to bend those rules.

Jig Choice

Jig choice is quite important when jigging. The depth, current, structure, and setup can lead to what jig would be best for that situation. Slow fall jigs for example, you want to fish in places with less current, because the slow fall jig flutters on the way down and sways side to side, so when on the boat your jig will drift and will end up having a wider scope and will be more horizontal to the boat. Jigs more geared towards fast pitch jigging you can fish in high current scenarios, and where the drift is moving so that you can get your jig down to the bottom. I have noticed that the fish much more prefer the jig when it stands in a more vertical position rather than a horizontal position. The more vertical you are also increases the falling action on a jig which gives you a higher percent chance of a hit on the fall. Required weight can also depict what your jig of choice is, heavier jigs in deeper and high current scenarios are the likeliest of choice. But if you are willing to stay over your jig, then you can use smaller jigs. I have dropped 60g jigs down 300ft, but the main thing is that you stay over your jig. I typically use 40g jigs in anything 30-100ft, 60-130g jigs in anything 100-250ft, 150-250 in anything 250-600ft and anything more I would go 400g+. But those are not rules and you can drop a 40g jig down 250ft if you want to. I personally just don’t have the patience.

Types of Jigs

Kahala caught in 550ft of water on Majorcraft 180g

There are a few main types of jigs that you have to choose from. There are long jigs, short jigs, flat fall jigs, casting jigs, slow fall jigs, butterfly jigs, and the different in them lies in the shape. Long jigs are normally long as the name mention and they are usually weighted evenly sometimes with a bit more weight on one side. Straight fall is where the jig is completely even on all sides so that it flutters down side ways. You also have casting jigs and fast fall jigs which are much more weighted on one side which give them a straight down fall action or when shore jigging a father casting distance. Lastly are slow fall jigs and butterfly jigs which are designed to flutter on the way down. This is done by having them be unevenly weighted so that they flutter side to side on the fall. Some brands that I liked and used before are Major Craft, Shimano butterfly, Duo International, and Maria. Yet there are many other jigs out there and they all will do the job. I have noticed the way you work the jig makes the entire difference rather than color. 

Working the Jigs

Moana Kali caught in 140ft of water on Majorcraft Live Bait jig 60g
Nabeta caught on Ahi USA Assault 60g jig in 100ft of water

Working the jigs is the most important part in jigging and what I believe is the biggest factor to enticing a fish to bite. Like I mentioned, there are both slow fall and fast fall jigs. Slow pitch jigging with slow fall jigs are completely different from fast jigging. You are keeping your jig close to the bottom, and pitching it up and letting it flutter down. That is supposed to represent a dying bait fish. Fast jigging you want to work faster obviously, simultating a fleeing bait fish. For both I think it is very important to have a small time to pause so that it lets the jig fall. No matter how fast you’re jigging, give your jig time to stop and flutter down, even if it is for a split second because that is when you will most likely get hit. Certain species prefer certain actions. Ulua, omilu, kahala and most Trevally species prefer a fast moving jig as well as all species of tuna, kaku, and Awa Awa. Other species like yellow spots, uku and goats prefer a mid range type of action where your giving it time to fall, yet still pitching the jig at a moderately fast pace. Lastly, for slow pitch I noticed a lot of times you would get fish like nabeta, nunu peke, kagami and hagi. You can still catch all those species with all types of actions. It’s just that I have gotten the most bites from those fish on those types of action. 

Setup

The setup for jigging can vary, but honestly you don’t need those fancy jigging rods like Ocea, Fcl and Zenaq to catch fish. It may help get you more bites and it will be easier to work the jigs, but really they aren’t necessary. The main thing rod wise is that you want something that is easy for you to use and preferably light in weight. 

Ulua caught on Shimano Butterfly 140g jig in 125 ft of water

Reel wise, a nice solid reel should do the job and it should be able to fit a sufficient amount of line and the lighter it is, the easier it is on your arm. But it isn’t the most important factor when jigging. I think that capacity is more important than weight of the line when jigging. You want at least 200 yds on your reel because you may be thinking that a 60lb Ulua isn’t gonna bit a 40g jig, but it has happened to us micro jigging with a 2500 size reel and they are impossible to stop. And if you hook a pelagic jigging, which can happen, capacity will help you land the fish. I would say minimum for boat jigging is PE 1.5 and the maximum is PE 5. You can go higher but the thicker your line is, the harder time it will have cutting through the water. You want thin line so that your line can slice through the water and get to the bottom faster. I usually connect it to mono leader with an FG knot but that’s just because that reel doubles as my whipping and casting reel. But you can use PR knots, GT knot, Albright knot, or whatever knot you find reliable and low profile. I don’t use fluoro because it’s so abrasion resistant, most knots can’t cinch down enough. The weight of your mono is your choice. I do 25lb mono for a PE 1.5 setup, and 60lb mono for a PE 3 setup

Conclusion 

Jigging has quite a lot of factors that come into play, and it may seem like a lot to take in. But 5 years ago when I was first introduced to jigging, watching the guys hand-line jig at the buoys, I didn’t know anything. Me and my dad tried jigging for 5lb aku with a 9/0 penn and a spreader bar (we didn’t catch anything). The main thing is to have fun, and be committed. The more you jig the more you will get a good stroke down and you will then get more bites. The main thing that kept me going was that I was having fun doing it and it was addicting, especially when you got the strike. I didn’t know about any of this when I was jigging at that time, I was doing anykine, but I was catching. There are no rules to jigging, but the main thing is that you enjoy doing it. If I got one hit every trip I was successful. So main thing is that you stay committed and have fun doing it and eventually the bites will come.

Coach Haru: Tips to make you a successful jigger

November 28, 2020 By Scott Leave a Comment

With kayak and boat jigging getting really popular in Hawaii, Coach Haru has provided some simple tips to keep in mind while scouring the depths for something strong pulling and delicious.

Coach Haru: Most of time fish bite the jig during the fall. Angler feel fish bite during the jerk but really fish take a jig when jig is suspended or the moment of the fall. Japanese fisherman say “making MA” which means, make timing. Jerking or reeling makes moment of suspend or fall to let fish have a chance to take a jig. Toothy pelagic fish attack jig during reeling or jerking up. They bite tail so need hooks on tail of jig. Jigs made to fall straight down, fast, are tail weighted jig. Purpose is to use on windy day for casting. Long distance cast.

From boat or yak, strong current makes it hard to reach the bottom. I use only center balance jigs from yak because I don’t have to cast far. If there’s strong current, I pedal my Hobie to keep against current while jig is falling or use I use a sea anchor. Falling is more important than reeling up. Basic of fishing is how long can keep bait including lures in the water. As long as jig falls, chances of bite is great.

You have to feel how the jig is moving in the water. Any lure fishing angler has to know how it works. If no mental image of lure action, hard to make MA. Artificial bait won’t move by themselves. All about anglers skill. Fish is not too stupid. They know when is the best time to attack bait. When bait are wounded and not be able to get away. Angler who can perform wounded weak bait will hanapa’a.

Fast action and slow action: Slow action for appearance. For example there is a bait ball boiling. Cast a lure into the ball. Lure must be more appealing to the fish since it’s competing against huge group of real bait. Slow or suspend the jig to show the lure. As soon as you leave the ball, reel fast to perform bait running away. Imagine if I am a fish, what attracts me is easy meal. I think humans are the same way. Easy $$$ is best of all!

Another compact tungsten jig taken by big fish!

October 26, 2020 By Scott 7 Comments

I’ve been kayak fishing the Windward side for kau kau fish (goats, lai, nabeta, small uku etc) but wasn’t finding opelu, bigger uku, or pelagics. When the wind and surf dropped on the South side I went back to check my old spots. Those spots were overrun with small fish who pulled my frozen opelu off without getting hooked.

After going through more than 20 pieces (I ended up cutting the opelu in half), I gave up and put a live moana out. 10 mins later the fish got hit and a scrappy 2lb omilu came up, in 70ft of water. I’ve never caught an uku on a live moana despite its reputation as “uku candy”. I let the omilu go (you’re welcome Matt), and went 1 mile downwind to a spot I’ve hooked ulua on jigs, but lost them. Here’s the report when an ulua busted me off.

Squiggly horizontal lines started showing up about 20ft off the bottom so I dropped the pink 60gm tungsten jig down. I didn’t expect a huge fish since the jig is only 2.5″ but it got slammed by a fish at full speed, and the fish pulled tight drag off my reel smoothly. Right as I was reaching to turn the GoPro on, the line when slack. What came up was the curly cue “pig tail” of my 40lb flouro leader where it was attached to the Tactical Angler Power Clip. I had tied a Uni knot to that clip 2 trips ago on the water and maybe I didn’t cinch it down tight enough?

The SW wind picked up and I was now more than a 2 miles downwind from my launch/landing. There were still 4 out of 6 battery levels left on the Bixpy jet motor and I ran it at less than half speed and paddled along. 2 battery levels remained when I touched sand. Whew.

I have one more of those pink tungsten jigs in that prototype shape. This was the last time that particular jig was photographed, landing a lai on an earlier trip. I was working with an established international tungsten company to design affordable compact jigs to sell in the Store. They sent me a small set to try out and the jigs have gotten bit on every trip, from moana, lai, to ulua and kahala, but the company suddenly went MIA. I’m bummed because these were the best jigs I’ve ever fished. I’m now working with a second company to get their jigs in, and hoping they don’t disappear on me.

Thad, our resident JDM expert and whipping technician, suggests I use 8 wraps with the uni knot instead of the 5 I’ve been tying. I’ll definitely give that a shot!

Small tungsten jig outfished bait and a normal jig!

October 1, 2020 By Scott 9 Comments

We were blessed with light wind this week so I was out on the windward side again, working on my damashi skills and doing more tungsten jig testing. Even though the big tide was rising, there wasn’t much current so it was easy to pan around, mark fish, then drop on them.

I started out looking for opelu, couldn’t find any, so I went past 100ft to a depth Capt Erik told me to check. Sure enough there were marks along that depth contour and my first weke nono (Pflueger’s goatfish) came up. I was stoked to find one, but since it was a little one I let it go. Drifted off that mark and must’ve been over sand because a nabeta came up next. Then it was non-stop deepwater lizardfish so I put one on my bait rod and dropped it down. Nothing touched it. Hmmm…

I took off the lizardfish and put a previously thawed and refrozen opelu on, and motored out to 200ft and back into 150ft with no love. Grabbed the jig rod with the 2.5″ 2oz tungsten weight and dropped down. Boink! A lizardfish grabbed it! Caught another lizard after that and decided to get off the sand and head in for the zone I had action on the last trip.

So the little jig was gobbled up the pesky lizardfish but could it attract a much bigger predator? I was over some spread out marks and was hopeful since that jig has been hit on every third drop or so, and kablam! Something strong and heavy yanked the rod tip down and was peeling out line. Now this was a decent fish and I really wanted to see what had hit the jig. A few minutes later a 15lb class kahala was expelling bubbles near the surface. My first kayak kahala on a jig, and a really fun fight on the Shimano Game Type J XHeavy rod and gold Trinidad 14 reel.

I motored/paddled back to that spot, and 2 drops later a stronger fish pulled line in long spurts. It shook its head so I assumed it was a bigger kahala but it turned out to be a GT that had just made ulua status. I had to tighten my drag further than I had with the kahala, and was surprised how much stronger the ulua was. I would say that the ulua fought harder initially but the kahala pulled more steadily. I couldn’t believe how the little jig, just 2.5 inches long, was causing these bigger fish to frenzy. I released the mini ulua also.

So now my confidence was super high and I dropped the jig again, and on the way down something swam off with it. This was an even stronger fighting fish and I tightened the drag as much as I dared. The runs were spurty and I could feel twanging on the line. Then there was less resistance and I cranked hard for a few seconds, came tight again and whatever was on the line at that point surged for the bottom and then the mainline cut. Either the fish was swimming towards the surface when the line felt slack, or I was reeling up a fish head that then got finished off by a shark. And the shark took my lucky blue jig whose eyes I painted with nail polish. 🙂

I put on a center weighted 100gm lead jig, found the mark again and… nada. I never got a bite again. Was it because the jig was too big or did the fish move off? The tide was reaching the slack high but I think the little magic Tunsten jig would have gotten bit some more. I just have a few of those left and look forward to trying them again!

Here’s what the fish looked like swimming off. Not the most graceful release of the kahala butat least he didn’t have any problems will a full air bladder keeping him on the surface.

Motorized kayak damashi and jigging action!

September 17, 2020 By Scott 2 Comments

The wind forecast finally dropped to fishable conditions. It promised a 10mph East wind directly onshore on the Eastside, and a 15mph North East wind coming down the mountains on the south side. So I headed East and had the launch and water to myself due to the social gathering restrictions.

The wind felt like 12 mph heading straight into it but I could push through with the help of my Bixpy motor mounted on my rudder. It was 2.5 miles out to the 130ft spot I hoped held opelu but no schools showed up on my oldie but goodie Garmin Echomap 44CV. I paddled around with the motor assisting me, at about 3mph, as I scanned around for bottom marks.

The first scattered mark, slightly off the bottom, produced a lai which I kept for a buddy who makes flies out of the skin. Next up was a surprise nabeta which must have been in a sand patch I didn’t know was there.

Then I went deeper, all the way out to 180ft but didn’t see anything good and my frozen opelu went untouched. The wind brought me back in, and I started exploring the shallower water. A very active mark showed up on the bottom so I used the motor to hold me in place against the current and dropped the 2-hook damashi rigged with CHL Minnows. As soon as I lifted it off the bottom the pole arched and line pulled off the reel! I was trying to remember how heavy the branch line on the damashi was, and was hoping it was at least 10lb test. The fish battled me all the way up, on the light drag, and I was surprised to see an uku that later was weighed 2lb 10oz. The other branch line was broken off so maybe two uku hit the rig. I had been searching for uku in this area in the past and never expected to catch them on a damashi!

When I checked my opelu it was gone and the 2oz tungsten bullet weight I was testing had teeth marks on it! Man, that was a crazy frenzy.

With the bite this hot and my damashi rig only having one hook now, I switched to my jigging setup rigged with a 2 oz, 2.75 inch prototype tungsten jig I’ve been hoping to test. I couldn’t find that mark despite having set a “Man Over Board” on the GPS so I searched around the area.

Found another good mark in 90ft, dropped the jig on it and “kapow!”. A good fighting fish jerked the tip, pulled a bit of line and gave a good account of itself. The compact jig had fallen like shot and must’ve hit the omilu on the head, haha.

I had another jig shape to test so I switched and went hunting for a good mark again.

Dropped the second tungsten jig on the mark and “whammo”, hooked up! This fish wasn’t taking line but still felt fun. A nice moana came up. Both the omilu and moana were released. I was stoked to see how well the tungsten jigs worked.

I moved off the spot and only saw scattered marks on the fish finder so I went back to the damashi, with 3 hooks this time. By now it was midday at the top of the big King Tide and the current went slack. Fish didn’t bite for a while but then it picked up with a smaller uku and omilu. I released those and the misc reef fish that were keeping me busy.

When small, brown hagi started coming up it was time to head for home. I ran the motor at a 3/4 speed and the battery died about a half mile from my landing. Running between 1/4 and 3/4 speed for 6 hrs drained the battery. Now I know and will keep more juice in the tank just in case.

Without the assistance of the Bixpy I couldn’t safely do the 7 mile round trip, and wouldn’t have been able to stay over marks while I dropped on them. Thank you Bixpy!

Stay tuned for more testing of the compact tungsten jigs. Even though they are only 2 oz (60 gm) they fall like a 3 oz (90 gm) jig because of their compact shape.

Coach Haru: Japanese Jigging Tips – Part #4

September 10, 2020 By Scott 4 Comments

More Japanese jigging pearls of wisdom from Coach Haru!

Coach Haru: There are 3 type of signs of bait fish in fish finder. The elongated shape on the left shows bait isn’t being threatened. Maybe no predators around. Drop a jig on it but you might not get a bite at all.

Center one is looks very balled up. They got security alert, must stay closer together. Often predators you’ll see predators on the fish finder. Best time to drop a jig. Jig moves different from other real bait. Jig is falling through bait, fall out of the group, predator’s instinct kicks in.

And last one on the right, they got attacked. Bait are spreading all over mix with bigger fish in. It’s harder to get attention from predators because they are very busy chasing real bait. Artificial bait can not win against real ones. So see this round ball, drop jig now.

Assist hook rigging depends on type of jig. For example, center weighted jig’s purpose is to fall longer, sideways. Chance of fish biting the head or tail is 50 – 50. Ideal to put on both sides. But line attached to the head so eventually line gets tension head lift up so no need equal size hook on the end. Bigger on head, smaller on tail. Long center weight jig, I put 2 hooks on each. Make sure both hooks don’t hook each other. Tail weighted jig like early Shimano butterfly jig should not put on tail. They are not good swimming jig, so no need.

Tail weighted jig made for swimming, fast retrieve jig can have treble hook on tail because head and rear balance don’t matter. Slow pitch jig like flat jig needs to have both on both ends. And must have light cord on assist hooks. They must not obstruct action of the flat jig. Also light hooks like titanium.

I used to catch Ono with assist hook made with thin wire leader with treble hook tied with metal crimp.  It worked good. Toothy fish like Ono, ahi, mahi, kaku, they bite bait not suck to swallow like Ulua or kahala. Need shorter assist hooks. Best is 1/3 the length of the jig. Ulua, kahala, others like Moana, weke, those are suck the bait in to mouth, need longer assist hook to make sure hooks go into their mouth deeper. Most of fish attack head of bait because chasing from behind bait is much difficult for them. Their target is the eyes. That’s why all those lures have eyes and very realistic eyes.

Rear weighted jig: 
For shore jigging, casting distance is the most important. Long cast has more chance of a bite. Especially, when there is a bait boil, you want to reach to the boil.

Rear weight jig stays in water longer, showing jig to fish longer. Can search wider area. When cast it, heavy tail goes first, stays good form to fly. For off shore jigging, it can reach deeper water fast. When you see bait ball in the fish finder, rear weight jig can reach the bait ball fast and it falls almost straight that aiming at the target accurately.  Also rear weight jig shakes tail like swimming but depend on shape (cut to make edges). Rear weight jig is not good for long jerk or slow jerk. It doesn’t stay in the water flat or side stance, it falls straight. Fast jerk or retrieve is better. I use a rear weight jig with spinning reel, stiffer rod(tip) to control the jig. On medium current, off shore, I use 60g for 100ft.  150g for 200ft, 200G for 300ft.

Coach Haru: Japanese jigging tips – Part III

July 21, 2020 By Scott Leave a Comment

Coach Haru has so much jigging wisdom, these tips have been broken into multiple posts. Lot of wisdom here for beginning and advanced jiggers!

Shimano Flat Fall, second from the top, is a slow pitch jigs. The rest can be jigged fast, or retrieved to “swim” back to the boat

Coach Haru: Most of Major Craft Jigpara are made for retrieve in high speed. That’s why they have treble hooks in the end. High speed retrieve, fish chase and attack from behind, treble hook wiggle like tail. Assist hooks on tail is for slow jigs. Long or flat slow center balanced jig falls slowly with side way. Some jig has eyes on the tail too. When I go out with boat, I have 3 rods. One is casting rod with spinning reel (Shimano Twin Power 12000) PE 80lb main line, leader 100lb, I have bait reel (Shimano Ocea Jigger) PE 60lb main line, leader 40lb. For slow jig and long center balanced jig. Fast jigging (Daiwa Saltiga 8000), PE60lb main line, leader 80lb. Jig 250lb-300g, jig for 100 fathom or more depth.

I like to use lighter gear because fun to fight, make me thrilled, also when I defeat the fight, fish won’t spool out whole line,  just snap leader or take lures. I found so many long mono line in water in Hawaii. Can you imagine that marlin spool out 500 yard line. Line killed so many marine animals. For me, fishing is game like boxing. Boxing is not street fight. Boxing is game. Needs lots techniques, strategy and have to practice. I’m an MMA coach but my favorite style is boxing. When my plan works, that is satisfaction. 

Lumica 120gm (4 oz) jig used as the sabiki weight, no hooks

There are many jig sabiki in the market. There are from super light to heavy. When fish are not biting lures , use smaller jig like a compact tungsten jig. If still fish are not biting, I use jig as the weight on a sabiki. Size of flies on sabiki is are an inch or less, leader on fly is 15lb to 30lb. There is Nomase( live bait fishing) sabiki which can keep the bait fish on sabiki continue to fish not detach the bait from fly. The leader of fly is longer than normal sabiki so bait can swim better.  Use a jig instead of lead weight. Prefer swimming jig but not long center weighted jig since that can tangle line and flies easy.   Daiwa TG bait or Jigpara are good. I don’t put hooks on jig because I don’t wanna lose the jig, especially the expensive TG Bait. Also, I put 2 flies out more than that. I had tried home made jig sabiki had 4 flies; Kawakawa hit it more than one, I lost entire set up so I use just 2 flies. Also it’s shorter that easier to use from Kayak. Jig is swimming jig, when reel it, jig wiggles makes flies dance good. Here is a Japanese video of a jig used as the sabiki weight. He has assists hooks on his jig and catches bait on the jig too!

Editor’s note: There are underwater videos taken in Japan, of fish reacting to various objects jigged on the bottom. Haru refers to those videos below.

Now you know when fish bite. When the jig is suspended the moment or starts to fall, that’s the moment the fish bite. But fisherman feels fish bite on the way up. But fish already bit the jig. Fish doesn’t feel the hooks because the moment, jig has no tension. That’s why need to set the hook hard. When fish bite the jig, fish face down so hit hard, pull hard, fight hard. Reeling tairaba, fish is face up to chase it so when fish bite, no need to set hook because line has tension, face is face up, easier fight and no need to set the hook. Plugs as well. Reeling plugs on surface, fish comes from under, face is up to take the plug is easier than jig is taken by fish face is down. 

For jig fishing, gotta find the fish first. You must show the lure.  Important is to make sure the lure is in fish’s sight. Most of the time you drop a jig to the bottom. You can see your line and bottom on fish finder, you gotta feel the bottom with the jig. Is it sand or rocks or artificial reef or wrecked ship? What ever it is, you gotta feel it to identify exactly where your jig at. Gotta put a jig in fish’s sight. Sometimes jigging catch fish out feeding time. Bait fishermen not catching , but jigging fishermen catch. Because jig can make reaction bite. Agitate fish. Make them piss off so they wanna attack. Most of toothy fish react aggressively. It’s reaction bite. Jig must drop on fish. Very important for fish to see jig. It has no smell or sign of life, fish will not come to jig from far. If there is no fish on fish finder, I don’t jig.

Coach Haru: Japanese jigging tips – Part II

July 10, 2020 By Scott 6 Comments

Coach Haru is a well known and well respected MMA striking coach. He’s been effectively jigging off his kayak in Hawaii using techniques learned in Japan and would like share his insight with us.  We’re super blessed to have a jigging sensei share such hard earned knowledge. Coach Haru feels that jigging can be very effective when done correctly, and the assist hooks allow for the safe release of fish you don’t want to take home. He loves the challenge of using lures only to capture his prey. Currently he’s in Japan and hopes to return to HI when the quarantine lifts.

Coach Haru: Tairaba (see previous post) is 100 years old. Started in Nagasaki Kyushu and Tokushima Shikoku. It was just round lead with a hook and put shrimp on to catch Tai (red snapper). But shrimp became expensive so commercial fisherman started to use plastic instead.  

There is a Japanese proverb “catch Tai with a shrimp”, back then red snapper was not high end fish. Shrimp was more valuable and expensive.

It was in March, 5 min from my house in Kobe, I got a Buri (wild hamachi) with the 40g halalu color.

New style jig has a flasher plate in the tail. Bass shop sells those plate. Putting it on the tail of jig is popular right now. This is by Hayabusa Jack eye Maki Maki.( reel it reel it). It can cast very far then just retrieve it fast and stop and go. In the morning, most of predators on the surface casing bait, then sun comes up, they go down. Cast it when jig hit the water, fast retrieve and stop for the moment then go again for a couple times. If there is not bite then drop a jig to mid range. Still not bite then drop to the bottom. Just reel it fast.

Now retrieve jig instead jig up and down is popular because easier and anybody can do, not get tired for fishing all day long. Especially from kayak, sit down to fish has less angle than stand up to jig. When stand up most of time tip of pole is down. Jig up to straight but sit on kayak, pole points straight and jig up. When fish bite and have to set the hook, there is not much angle to set the hook hard because tip of rod is already up. Miss fish more than fish from stand up. That’s why retrieve lure is better for kayak fish. I had a Hobie Pro Angler that allowed me to stand up to fish on the kayak just like boat. But changed to Hobie Revo 13, it was harder and lost fish a lot because fish wasn’t hooked well by short angle of rod position. 

There are many jig sabiki in market. There are from super light to heavy. When fish are not biting lures, use smaller like tungsten then still fish are not biting, I use jig sabiki. Size of flies on sabiki is are an inch or less, leader on fly is 15lb to 30lb. There is Nomase (live bait fishing) sabiki which can keep the bait fish on sabiki continue to fish not detach the bait from fly. The leader of fly is longer than normal sabiki that bait can swim better.  Use a jig instead leads. Prefer swimming jig but not long center waited jig can tangle line and flies easy.   TG bait or Jigpara are good. I don’t put hooks on jig because I dont wanna lose especially TG bait. Also I put 2 flies out more than that. I had tried home made jig sabiki had 4 flies, Kawakawa hit it more than one, I lost entire set up so I use just 2 flies. Also it’s shorter that easier to use from Kayak. Jig is swimming jig, when reel it, jig wiggles makes flies dance good. I will post a picture when I make my own jig sabiki. 

Coach Haru: Japanese style jigging tips – Part I

July 3, 2020 By Scott 8 Comments

Coach Haru is a well known and well respected MMA striking coach. He’s been effectively jigging off his kayak in Hawaii using techniques learned in Japan and would like share his insight with us.  We’re super blessed to have a jigging sensei share such hard earned knowledge. Coach Haru feels that jigging can be very effective when done correctly, and the assist hooks allow for the safe release of fish you don’t want to take home. He loves the challenge of using lures only to capture his prey. Currently he’s in Japan and hopes to return to HI when the quarantine lifts.

Coach Haru:

Tairaba by Daiwa Baylover

These are the most popular lures in Japan now.

Tairaba style jig is good from kayak. Drop it and reel it, no need action, just reel it even fish bite still just reel it. No need to set hook, just reel. The easiest jigging style from yak. Long time ago, Shimano released Lucanus modified Tairaba but didn’t sell well. In Japan, Tairaba is very popular because no need technique just reel it. It is good for bottomfish like uku, opakapaka, onaga, roi, even pelagic fish. But use smaller hooks that big fish can break easy and it’s not cheap.

Tairaba Japanese video 1: https://youtu.be/MDkTPu0Sq2w

Tairaba Japanese video 2: https://youtu.be/j_rvnPYU0rk

You can use a baitcaster with Tairaba, no need to impart action, just reel.

Metal vibration by Big Backer

Set Upper diving minnow by Daiwa

These jigs, metal vibration, and diving minnow can fly so far. Can cast almost 100 yard. I wanna take them to Big Island for shore fishing someday.

Also popular is squid skirt. 3, 4 inch skirt under Tairaba or simply put a weight (1/2 or 1oz) in the head, drop it down to the bottom and just reel it up.

Color of lure is very important. Blue or natural fish color for sunny, daylight with clear water. Silver, glow color, zebra glow for dawn time. Pink for cloudy sky, gold with red or gold with green for murky water.

Usually Hawaii has sunny and clear water, I like to use blue, blue pink, sometimes pink. Deep water I use glow or zebra glow. West side I had good time with gold green. Daiwa sells TG Bait. People call it as bait not lure. It is made with tungsten that’s heavier than lead. Small silhouette than the same weight lure so when fish hesitate to bite bigger lure it works and goes deeper because of small size.

Slow pitch is hard with strong current or windy day. Center balance, long jig is fine when line goes diagonal or even side way by strong current but flat slow jig is hard make action right because it spins.

Jigs like Major Craft Jigpara that are made to swim is good for that. Because just reel it makes jig swim. I used Jigpara cast off kayak. As soon as hit water reel fast as I can. Caught kawakawa, ono, kaku, when I went to buoy caught so many aku and shibi.

In Japan use jig like metal blade. Cast and reel not jig. Many companies making jig to swim.

More gems from Haru to come soon!

Everything wanted to eat before the storm!

March 18, 2020 By Scott 3 Comments

Last week, the wind dropped right before a significant rain storm was expected. The fishing conditions weren’t ideal though. The tide was falling to a negative low, and it was just a few days after the full moon. Usually the slack low tide means sharks and ulua, but I couldn’t pass up the safe kayaking conditions.

The 8am sun was partially blocked by the gray clouds so it looked like dawn. I was hoping the fish thought the same. My first drop of the store bought damashi meant for opelu got hit by something much stronger. The small gold hooks bend easily so I kept the drag a little loose and just wanted to see what hit the tiny fly in 75ft of water. What finally showed was a brightly lit omilu. Proof that omilu do frequent the deep structure areas when there aren’t bait fish to draw them into the shallows.

I kept trying for opelu but the bait balls were small and moved too quickly. There was some type of bait fish on the surface getting hit by birds and dolphins but I couldn’t catch up to them. With no live opelu, I paddled out to 110 ft and lowered a frozen 9 inch opelu down. Before it reached the bottom something yanked at it before running off with the bait. The fish pulled the rod tip under water a few times in a very spastic fashion and fought very jerkily. I’ve fought bigger fish in the last 4 trips with nothing landed so I was cautiously hopeful this was an uku. Was stoked to see one but surprised how small it was compared to hard it pulled. Small oio are the same way. They pull as hard as they can and wear out.

Buoyed by the instant bite I dropped another opelu down and it sat for about 20 secs before something started tasting it. Then the line took off and soon it became apparent the sharks had arrived. I tried to bust if off but it took a long time to do so and the braid parted high up. Next 3 baits were eaten within 30 seconds and were sharks too. The sharks felt like they were smaller than the normal ones but still a pain to bring to the surface.

After losing time and tackle I switched to the Daiwa tungsten jig that hooked ulua before, and had a hit that didn’t stick. My arms were worn out by then from fighting sharks so I went in.

wahanui

I had dropped the GoPro down once, in the area where I hooked the omilu (about 75ft) and looked at the video at home. At least 3 wahanui and a toau swam up to the camera as it reached the bottom and there were the eerie sounds of whales in the background.

I kept the omilu and the small uku because I hadn’t kept fish for a long time and we wanted safe, Covid-19 free fish to eat. Both fish weighed 2.1 lbs and the omilu had a 5 inch fat red oama in its stomach.

Negative low tide, big moon, yet everything wanted to feed before the storm. I’ve never experienced a bite like that before. I just gotta figure out how to stay away from the sharks.

Goose egg but lessons learned kayak fishing the deep

November 7, 2019 By Scott 4 Comments

My last 3 deep water kayak trips resulted in no fish landed, but each one is bringing me closer to success, I hope. Trip 1: Wind was light initially so I explored some new grounds further from my launch/landing spot; found some suspended bait schools and saw big fish marks under the schools but the wind came up and I had to paddle back to my normal grounds. By then the current was too hard to stay on the spot so I came in.

Trip 2: Fished with our new fishing partner Robert back on the grounds where he helped me catch my first ono. Here’s that ono write up if you missed it. He’s been patiently trying to teach me how to catch opelu, and we found the school suspended in 250ft of water but again I couldn’t hook any.

Catching opelu so far down is difficult because the school isn’t staying in one place and the kayak drifts with the wind and current. There are also sub-surface currents taking our rigs for a ride. The guys on Hobies can pedal themselves to stay over the school but on a paddle kayak, the best I can do is paddle up current, drop down and try to reach the school as I drift over it.

Robert caught about 9 big opelu and I thought I finally caught one but it came up yellow. I guess it’s easy to hit the taape school since they’re hovering over structure, not swimming back and forth like opelu.

Even heavy jigging in 300ft of water has proven to be more difficult than expected. Like opelu schools, the areas holding preds are a small target to hit. In the past, I’ve jigged off boats in shallower water and was able to get down with jigs that weighed 100gm (3.5 oz) or less. Turns out kayaks drift faster than boats and you need more weight to reach the bottom quickly.

Robert hooked an 8lb kahala on a 120gm jig in 270ft of water speed-jigging that he was able to target with his fish finder. I tried to do the same with an 80gm jig that took too long to get down, so I went up to a Shimano Flat Side 112gm jig and still didn’t connect. And I got tired speed jigging so deep!

When we trolled the live opelu Robert had caught, we got picked up and dropped by fish that hardly left a mark on the bait. A 23lb shibi (ahi under 100lb) was caught in that area, so we’re thinking our big opelu was getting hit by the shibi but not chewed long enough for the fish to find the hooks.

Mangled damashi rig

Trip 3: Winds were light so I was able to return to the new spot I discovered on Trip 1. Found what looked to be opelu in water 200ft deep, but after trying for a while, my damashi rig got mangled. Hooks ripped off and lead weight taken! I figured, if the fish wanna eat a piece of lead, they might wanna eat a jig.

I had brought heavier jigs with me this time, figuring they’d reach the bottom without “scoping out” too far. I started with the 100gm Daiwa Tungsten jig (top in photo) thinking it would look like a reef fish because of its small profile, and still fall quick enough. On the first drop it got picked up and what felt like a good size jack (ulua or kahala) ran with it for a few seconds before the hook pulled. That was the first real fish I had felt in 3 outings! I was stoked the jig worked and I was able to entice the fish with the slow pitch “lift, drop and crank” method.

I paddled back to the area I had hooked up and there were thick marks on the bottom. Dropped down again, cranked up a bit off the bottom, then slow pitched twice and got picked up. The fish pulled line easily and since it was near the bottom I had to really tighten my drag. I was using a Shimano Game Type J medium-heavy rod, not expecting to fight big kahala and ulua, and was over-matched. The rod’s soft, parabolic bend couldn’t put the brakes on the fish and the line parted less than 15 seconds into the fight. Pretty sure it was an ulua because the kahala I’ve hooked in the past run more steadily and not as angrily. This one felt like it was really trying to bust me off. Here’s what it looked like.

I couldn’t hook anything else with my other jigs and my damashi rig got destroyed again so I tried to salvage the trip by catching an uku. By now it was past noon and the tide had peaked. Not the best time to bottom fish. My first spot came up empty and I paddled against the current to a spot that has yielded uku and sharks in the past. Dropped down a 10 inch frozen opelu, held the rod and waited. Tap, tap, tap…tap, tap, tap…tap, tap, tap. When I checked the bait it was gone. I don’t think hage can pull the opelu off both hooks so I was hoping it was a bait stealing uku. Dropped another whole bait down and the taps started again. Then line pulled out for about 3 seconds, then stopped. Arrgh… an uku had grabbed the middle of the big bait and swum off and got away without feeling the hooks.

I tried dropping the front half of a big opelu down and got yanked but the bite didn’t set. So I put down the back half of the opelu. Thump, thump… and it felt like the fish ran into a cave. Then the cave moved slowly at first, than at a constant speed. I either hooked a submarine or a huge shark. I tightened the drag hoping to pull the hook out or bust off but the creature steadily pulled me from 115 ft deep to 170 ft. I was tired from paddling around for more than 5.5 hrs at this point so I did everything I could to break free, then made the bolo paddle of shame to shore.

I had bought a few of those Daiwa tungsten jigs on eBay in different weights when they fell out of favor a few yrs ago and people were selling them at half the retail price. I just checked and they are are now selling at way more than retail price. I guess someone figured out a small, dense jig falls fast and looks like a tasty morsel. I had fished the 80gm version at the Penguin Banks a couple of yrs ago and caught a big white papio on it. I guess GTs like its action?

Those 3 trips were a lot of time and effort spent to catch nothing but I did learn some new spots holding fish, reminded that slow pitching saves energy and attracts fish, and uku bite even during the slow times if you drop a bait right on them.

Hope I actually land a fish next time.

Can fish see colors? If so, what lure color should I use?

October 21, 2019 By Scott 2 Comments

Can fish really see colors? Can they see the ultra life-like finish some high end lures sport? Should I change my surface lure color when the light is low? When dropping jigs deep, what are the best colors to use?

These are some of the questions lure chuckers ask. Over the years we’ve been given conflicting information. Sport Fishing Magazine ran an article in their June 2019 issue that is also on their website. “How and What Fish See” written by Doug Olander. The article answers these questions and I’ll summarize the info in a manner you and I can hopefully remember. All the photos in this post were taken from the Sport Fishing Magazine website

Do fish see colors?

Yes. Shallow water fish can see all the colors. Deep water fish living in low light aren’t able to see as many colors because colors are darkened and muted down there.

Do surface fish see the ultra life-like finish on my high end lure?

It’s believed that fish with large eyes in clear water can detect those subtle design patterns but whether their fish brains can process all that info has been heavily debated.

What’s the best color to use near the surface in clear conditions?

44 fishing experts were asked this question. The experts overwhelmingly said white or a white pattern.

What’s the best color to use in murky conditions or low light?

White, or white pattern, again was the color of choice, followed by chartreuse.

What do my surface lures look like when viewed from below?

Against a bright sky, all lures will look dark! No wonder top water experts say color isn’t as important and swimming action.

What do my lures look like in murky water?

Whites, yellows and greens are retained. Blues and darker colors turn to black the soonest.

The lures on the right are in 70ft of water. Reds are the first to darken.

What colors are retained in the deep?

Red tones are the first to go, in low light, deep water. Blue tones will be retained the deepest, green tones the next deepest, the others will fade to black sooner.

What do fish see in the deep when I retrieve my jig?

Deep water fish feeding in low light aren’t able to distinguish colors much but are geared to see slight movements against the background light. While they can see and feel jigs moving quickly, they can also see jigs slowly retrieved in a repetitive, predictable fashion. That could by why “slow pitching” off the bottom, then speed jigging higher in the water column is an effective strategy.

What’s the takeaway from all of this?

Lure action is more important that lure color pattern but whites and white patterns show up the best in clear and low visibility conditions. When deep jigging, choose whites, blues and greens and present an action that makes your lure the most noticeable since the fish may be straining to see it.

JDM vs Non-JDM Round 1

June 8, 2019 By Scott 4 Comments

So, we kicked off our informal comparison of Japanese Domestic Model (JDM) lures vs Non-JDM lures. The plan was to use Erik’s aluminum skiff to take us to promising reefs for wade whipping.

As Erik and I were launching we saw papio blowing up bait fish. We scrambled to put a lure on, and Erik threw a JDM micro jig; I threw a Shimano Waxwing Baby. On the second cast I hooked a papio and was surprised it was an omilu, not a white, in the muddy water. Waxwings are sold in the US and not in Japan, so Non-JDMs were up one! I got another hit that missed the upturned double hook, and the school swam out of reach.

We picked Robert up on the way to the wading spot, and he rigged Carolina-style with a non-JDM soft plastic knob-tailed shad. Erik threw a JDM popper, I threw a JDM hard plastic sub-surface lure, but there was no life on the flat. We got back in the skiff and trolled around for nada.

Then Erik put us on a drift into the shallows and Robert connected with an omilu on his Maria micro jig, followed by a lizardfish. Officially, the jig is not distributed in the US, but sold in some local tackle stores here, so we considered it a JDM jig. JDM 1 – Non-JDM 1.

The sun was sitting on this action-less day so we dropped Robert off and headed back to our launch site. Low light conditions are when the popper really shines and with 5 mins to go, Erik pulled off the last inning rally. His JDM popper got hit as soon as it landed in the water, and the fish pulled drag like a big papio. Turns out the biggest fish of the day was foul hooked, but was released relatively unharmed.

Final score JDM 2, Non-JDM 1. We really didn’t have enough shots at fish to stage a head-to-head lure comparison. We did confirm that the papio really aren’t in yet. More testing to follow!

Holoholo: Damashi & Jig Mayhem!

March 25, 2019 By Scott 3 Comments

I met Robert on the beach as he was cleaning up after a full day’s kayak fishing outing. He recently purchased a used, big brother version of my kayak and we bonded over that. He scored a big uku that day, here’s that post. Since that day, Robert has been very helpful in getting Frank and me better prepared for the pelagics in the deep.

Robert: Well to start off, I am Robert Richards, a nearshore/offshore kayak fisherman. Hailing from Wyoming, I spent most of my childhood on Oahu and decided to become a resident back in 2007. Of course, I pursued shore fishing: whipping, dunking and even trying my luck at sliding dead baits. (no luck on the slide for me haha) Eventually I wound up wanting more. Not having resources for a boat, the next best thing was this kayak fishing craze that is seriously in right now. I picked up a kayak and the adventures began! Similar to Scott, I chose the Ocean Kayak Trident Ultra 4.7 after countless hours of deliberation as my current kayak.

Managed to get out this past week with a couple kayak friends, Reece, Jay and Ben. Normally we do an early launch to try and pick up any Menpachi (Brick Soldierfish), Aweoweo (Bulleye) or more importantly some Akule (Big Eye Scad) for the sunrise bite. However, this trip turned into a later launch at 5:30am. We tried to catch Opelu (Mackerel Scad) at the start of light, but none to be found. Hoping to catch the lowering tide, minor bite period at 6:30am to 7:30am and sunrise bite, we decided to rush to one of our spots.

We paddled towards our spot. On the way, Jay and Ben found an Opelu school, but they were too far away for me to try for that school. I tend to keep moving out on the water always searching for bait or good marks. I paddled up on one of my other spots and BOOM fish finder is loaded with the marks of Opelu. Got my damashi sent down just in time into the school. Picked up what felt like 2 Opelu. Started to work them up and then “ZZZZZZZZZZZ” my reel starts peeling line, over 100ft gone in the flash of 3 colors of braided line. I thought to myself: ‘as long as I can last this run, I have a chance at landing this fish’. Well, I did, this battle turned into a 400ft drift and nearly 40 minutes of tug of war before I finally landed a decent 10lb class KawaKawa (Mackerel Tuna) on my 10lb test damashi.

The top hook was hooked perfectly in the corner of the mouth. This isn’t as common in these cases, sometimes they get hooked in the mouth but usually they get snagged on the body somewhere. KawaKawa are strong fighters all the way until the end, no matter the size. The problem is that they rather enjoy stealing your Opelu in the depths and destroy your damashi. To counter this, I usually have a looser drag when I fight my Opelu, fighting the Opelu in a pumping fashion using my reeling hand to cup the spool for added drag pressure.

The day went on and the bait became scarce, though there were plenty of larger marks varying from the bottom to the mid water range. This calls for the jig! I dropped my jig in about 340ft and started to crank. About 12 cranks up, a huge hit and line peels off the reel. Unfortunately, I couldn’t stop this beast and it ran into a cave resulting in line cut in bankrupt fashion…  I quickly tied a damashi and jig then back towards the original spot. However, Reece has been on a jigging binge, catching an estimated 20lb Kahala (Greater Amberjack) and couldn’t help himself but to challenge me to a jig battle! OH, it’s on! We found some good marks, dropped our jigs then, BOOM, Reece is hooked up and I am left with no bite, cheering him on. A battle ensued and Reece landed his PB Ulua (Giant Trevally) estimated to be between 25-30lbs! Caught and released.

We dropped a few more times with no takers, so we headed back towards the first spot. I paddled over another school of bait, this time managing to land one. Threw it out on the live bait rig and trolled. Making to the original spot, I found another bait school and hooked into what felt like one more Opelu. Score! Until… ‘ZZZZZZZ’, another 100ft of line ripped from my spool and the fight on another pelagic on my damashi started! This time I was a bit more impatient due to my time limit rapidly approaching. I wound up tightening my drag a little too much and broke it off. The funny part is the pelagics loved stealing the bait off my damashi this day but none wanted the rigged up live nor dead baits.. Sometimes that is how it goes. The over all conditions, stayed calm with light winds, plenty of sunshine and minimal current. The bite stayed on from about 6:30 until about 9:30-10am. Total trip went for about 6hrs.

Composite product test and catch report

April 9, 2018 By Scott Leave a Comment

Since returning from the Fred Hall Show in Long Beach, the weather was often windy and rainy. Erik was able to get out and jig the deep a few times when conditions allowed and caught some noteworthy fish on the test jigs.

He got this 15lb kawakawa on a Jigging Master striped glow jig he purchased at the Fred Hall Show and immediately bled and iced the fish.  Made some incredible sashimi.

 

 

 

 

 

And right before Easter, Erik deep dropped a Lumica Xtrada Jacker glow jig with rattle he was given by the guys at Lumica and pulled up a rare and delicious hapu’upu’u.  Erik described the sashimi as having a texture similar to ono but with a slightly lighter taste.  And 3 days later it firmed up a little more with great oil content. He also made a fish and shrimp chowder with it and said it was super ono.

 

I haven’t done as well.  Caught a cold shortly after returning from the Fred Hall Show and whipped once and kayak fished once.  Took the 13 Fishing Omen 7’3″ travel rod and zero ball bearings Concept Z bait casting reel out to the test flats.  The tide was too low to allow predators to come in but I was able to see how the rig cast a 1/2 oz top water lure into the wind. I was very impressed.  The spool doesn’t initially spin as fast as my other bait casters so it doesn’t have to slow down as abruptly either.  I had 17 lb mono on, which is more forgiving than braid, and never backlashed, even with a head or side wind.  Could also cast further than I normally do despite a stiffer rod 7 inches shorter. The little reel was easy to cup and the 3-piece travel rod felt like a 1-piece.  I did get a small kaku to boil on my lure but that was it.  I’m pretty stoked to have a travel rod that I can carry on the plane that fishes like my 7’10” 1-piece whipping rod.  Excited to test the rig again under more fishy conditions.

Frank and I did paddle out on the one day calm enough to do so.  We fished the same 100 ft dropoff area we’ve been getting the big strikes and small uku, and the tide was rising in the morning.  Yet it was super slow. I hooked one shark which looked to be about 5 ft, and Frank had 3 of his trolled dead opelu attacked by something that clipped 3 inches off the tail.  It was a bright moon day, a few days before the full moon so maybe that’s why it was so slow. Even the whales had left the area.

The shark pulled steady and rested often. I tried to fight it off the bow, not off the side, so it couldn’t tip me over, and finally got it up to leader after about 20 mins.  Just as I was reaching to cut the leader with my new Gerber Neat Freak scissors I bought from the Fred Hall Show, it shredded the leader with its body or tail.  The VMC 6X Circle Hook was embedded in its jaw, keeping the line away from its chompers.  No pictures or video. Turns out, while fighting the shark, I turned the GoPro off instead of on.  Now I know how sharks feel on the line and the next time something pulls slow and steady, with rest periods, I’m gonna try my hardest to bust ’em off. My GLoomis Bucara rod, which is too stiff for the small uku I’ve been catching, had a lot of backbone to raise the shark off the bottom.  But all that backbone puts pressure on me so I gotta get in better shape to fight these heavy sea monsters.

No light wind days predicted in the near future so our product reviews are piling up.

We battled sharks/ulua on bigger gear and landed the target species – catch and cook

February 23, 2018 By Scott 10 Comments

Look at the discolored 20lb mono on the Sealine SL20. I even found salt clumps that I hadn’t washed away before storing it. Shame on me.

The last time Frank and I ventured out to the deep I ran into a strong fish that manhandled my light gear. This is what went down.  We were advised by my uku sensei to use 60 – 100lb leader and big rods/reels.  So I went into storage and rummaged through the gear I brought back from my party boat days out of San Diego that haven’t been looked at in more than a decade.  Cleaned and lubed a Daiwa Sealine SL20 conventional reel, put on fresh 50lb Sufix 832 and matched it to a Daiwa VIP boat rod.  This was my light setup to cast live anchovies on 20lb test mono back in the 90s before we used fluorocarbon leaders.  I figured it would be strong enough for Frank to land big uku and small ulua.

The red marking on the Trinidad’s side plate says “300yds 30lb Sufix” on clear tape. It isn’t a blemish.

I went into the “museum” to pull out the original gold Shimano Trinidad 14 and 7′ 7″ G Loomis Bucara bait rod I had purchased to catch yellowtail on the kayak in SoCal and never used.  That combo is at least 18 yrs old and the rod and reel are out of production now.  I really didn’t want to scratch the beautiful gold reel but the guys convinced me that the reel was meant to be fished, not to be tucked away in a box on a shelf.  Took off the discolored mono and put on 30lb Sufix to get more capacity. Both the Trinidad 14 and SL 20 are really 20 – 30lb test reels but I put 50lb on the SL20 just in case Frank needed to lock down on a big fish.

My uku sensei recommended VMC tournament 12/0 hooks that looked huge to me but the gap between hook point and shaft wasn’t really that big.  The intention was to hook the bait on, drop down and raise it off the bottom, away from hage, and just leave the rod in the holder until something hooked itself.  The circle hook with the severe turned in hook point was designed to be initially taken deep into the fish’s mouth, and as the fish turned and ran, the hook would slide out to the mouth’s corner, roll into position and hook into the thick cartilage.  Layton, at Charley’s Fishing Supply, suggested we also carry a few 14/0 hooks in case our baits were so big the 12/0 hook point wasn’t fully exposed.  The 14/0 looks a lot larger but the gap really only is an index finger width versus the pinkie width of the 12/0.

Frank and I both started with the 12/0 hook.  He used 50lb mono and I used 60lb fluoro as leader.  I figured we had tipped the scales in our favor.  Boy was I wrong.

We picked a light trade wind day with a rolling swell due to a big east swell wrapping around the island.  Not as glassy as our previous time but still easily fishable.  The Garmin 44cv took me to where we started the last time and we put down 5 inch opelu halves Frank had skillfully brined,  wrapped in newspaper and froze to preserve the integrity of the soft bait.  Not much was biting at the 80ft reef except for an occasional hage that shortened our bait and plucked out the eyes.  We kept our baits off the bottom to lesson the hage attack and set up behind the reef where it suddenly drops down.  Fishing with a light drag and clicker to allow the fish to run with the bait before getting hooked, we had numerous hard pulls that didn’t set. Some took the entire bait.  Others left teeth scrapes halfway up the bait but not at the hook area.

Suddenly Frank got a hard pull and run that almost tipped his SUP over.  The fish ran down and hugged the bottom like my fish did the last time, but Frank stabilized himself and quickly learned how to use the conventional reel.  He constantly had to adjust his seating position since the fish was pulling him forward, and had to reposition the gear strapped to his board.  The drag down fight went on for more than 25 mins and then I saw a large light colored shape at deep color. Looked like a big ulua, but Frank had a better view and he realized he had been battling a 6 ft plus shark!  It was another 5 – 10 mins before he could get the shark close enough to cut the leader and salvage most of his line.

This is just a couple mins of Frank’s physically challenging battle with the shark. Can you imagine sitting on a surfboard with no foot rests to push off of, feet dangling in the water with the ocean bottom 130 ft below, as a shark does its best to unseat you?  Frank did an incredible job getting that shark to leader.  Unfortunately the video of his release, with the shark swimming directly under me, had too many landmarks to use.

That shark didn’t take him too far out from where he had hooked it, but we slowly paddled back inside of the 100ft line. Frank caught his breath, and I dropped my opelu bait down.  More strong pulls and baits stolen.  Maybe our 12/0 hook was too large for most of the fish below us?  Then Frank hooked up with something big again!  This fish took him from the 100 ft depth to the 190 ft depth, which is about 350 yds based on the Navionics chart.  This fish cut his leader about 2.5 ft up from the hook before Frank could see what it was.  At this point, Frank’s arms and lower body were torched from doing big fish isometrics in a seated position on an SUP.

We paddled in to 80 ft, and Frank dropped a bait down, put the rod in the holder and started jigging with a Live Deception jig on his Shimano Stradic 4000 FK XG, which was a whole lot smoother than his old Penn 440SS.  He cast, jigged the lure back at an angle and bam! Hanapa’a! Up came a scrappy 2.5 lb omilu!  With that kau kau fish in his cooler bag he didn’t feel so bad about losing the second fish.  Then his bait rod bent over and he almost went with it.  The fish was running so hard he couldn’t get the rod out of the holder, so he loosened the drag, pulled it out and went back to work.  This fish fought like the second fish and pulled him out before cutting him off at about the same halfway up the leader spot as the second fish.  We’re wondering if the scute of an ulua cut the line so far away from the hook but I guess we won’t know until we land one.  I was wondering why I wasn’t hooking them or anything for that matter.

Out of desperation I dropped my opelu half down, cranked up about 40 ft, and held the rod to feel for bait stealers.  Soon I felt some hard taps, then stronger tugs, then the clicker sang.  After so many missed fish I expected this one to drop the bait but it stayed on and I fought my first fish on the Bucara/Trinidad setup.  It felt awkward compared to my short jig rod and bait casting reel. The rod had a stiff tip and long butt, and I had to think about laying the line as I retrieved.  The fish felt strong, much stronger than a hage so I was hoping it was the target fish.  It was, and the circle hook was securely tucked in the 3lb uku’s mouth.  That was the only fish I caught that day, but I was stoked to get my personal best.

In this video you can see that I wasn’t smart enough to put the rod in the holder and hold the leader with my left hand while netting with my right. I kept trying to use the rod tip to pull the fish close enough but the 6ft leader was too long!

We tried to fish that area harder and I finally got a strong, steady pulling fish. Thankfully it cut the leader within 15 seconds and I didn’t have to do big fish isometrics like Frank did. We were nearly out of bait and drinking water, so we trolled our baits in.  I put on a whole frozen halalu and it got hit hard but the fish had only taken the back half in its mouth and missed the hook in its head.

When we got to the beach we both had trouble standing up. 6.5 hrs seated makes our old bodies stiff!

The uku had a small fish, a red opae and a crab in its stomach; the omilu’s stomach was empty.  Frank gave the omilu to our friend who made my custom transducer rod and mounting plate so streamlined I could pull the large transducer through the water with minimal drag.  That Garmin 44cv fish finder/gps has been critical in putting us on the deep water fish.

Frank put slices of ginger and diced chung choy (pickled turnip) into the cuts on the side of the uku and steamed it.  After it was cooked he took it out and drizzled shoyu, then poured hot peanut oil over the fish, then garnished with green onions, parsley and shiitake mushrooms. He said was “ono” and he’ll be targeting uku next time and getting his workout on land.

We have to fine tune the size of the hooks we’re using to increase our catch rate, and get better with the conventional reels. I did put a small scratch in the Trinidad, probably while transporting the rods after our long day, but I guess it doesn’t hurt too badly.

 

What does the Hawaiian Yellowtail aka Hiramasa taste like?

February 21, 2018 By Scott 5 Comments

This winter, an abundance of “Hawaiian Yellowtail” have been caught in deep water spots from both shore and boats.    Not to be confused with the common kahala (greater amberjack) or the kampachi (almaco amberjack), these true yellowtail look like a smaller version of the Japanese or California yellowtail, and have been known to show up occasionally but not in the numbers seen in the last few months.  Maybe the water has been a little cooler than our normal winters and they found it to their liking?  The local jiggers have been referring to them as “hiramasa” which is the name of one of the two Japanese yellowtails. The other Japanese yellowtail is called hamachi when it is small and farm raised, or buri, when it is larger, and is usually wild caught.  Confusing I know.  But anyway, we were very interested to hear how the Hawaiian Yellowtail tastes.  On social media, I’ve heard people say it made great sashimi but I hadn’t heard a definitive description of the taste.

So Erik, our boat popping and jigging enthusiast, went searching for them and his dad Edwin jigged one up.  Erik passed the fish on to Thad, our JDM product expert and sashimi connoisseur, to properly review.

Erik:
Me and Dad decided to fish during the Super Bowl since my team wasn’t in it (49ers) and Dad has no interest in football.  We did want to catch the end of the game so we decided that we’d stay closer to shore.

We departed from Kahalu’u on our 14’ aluminum Lowe boat with Yamaha 9.9hp tiller around kickoff and headed toward a different spot than our normal jigging area.

My favorite type of fishing is topwater so I decided to start with that since there was a lot of rubbish around.  On my first cast of a 60gram plug I was quickly hit by something that let go almost as fast as it hit.  No drag was pulled but my pole definitely bent and I got excited.  My dad was able to catch the bend at the corner of his eye and quickly dropped his 2 ounce jig to the bottom.  On my 4th or 5th cast I got a chase and saw the electric yellow line of the elusive hiramasa.  I could tell the fish was getting used to seeing the plug and switched to another topwater lure that I’ve hooked mahi on.  The masa seemed to like the faster retrieve so I reeled as fast as I could for 5 revolutions, paused for half a second and continued the pattern.  Bango!  Hit again . . . Pulled drag for less than a second before coming free again.

I noticed my dad was jigging like he would in our kahala area and he thought that it was a kahala so I recommended he speed jig all the way to the surface.  Well, he took my advice and got the masa.  Fight wasn’t too long but the fish certainly gave a strong fight.  From the way I watched him fight and the way he explained the feeling of the fish, Dad and I both agreed that the hiramasa was pound-for-pound a better scrap than kahala.

After we snapped some pics I knew I wanted to get Thad’s input on the taste of the fish so I went home to clean it to give to him the next day. As soon as we got back to land I cleaned it but didn’t find anything in the stomach.

Thad:
I had been seeing recent social media reports of the rare Hawaiian hiramasa coming up in unusual numbers this winter and the number one thought that always crossed my mind – other than how I can catch my own, was how they tasted in comparison to the farmed hamachi that we are all familiar with.  Well, I was extremely lucky to receive one of these rare fish from Erik, who’s dad recently caught his second one on their boat on O‘ahu’s eastside.  I’ll share with you my thoughts on this prized catch.

My favorite way to consume any fresh ocean fish is raw as sashimi.  If it can be eaten that way, that’s how it’s going down. Aside from it being the easiest (and laziest) way to prepare fish, it allows you to really enjoy the unique flavor and texture characteristics of each species, without any sauce or spices to mask its flavor.  I do add a dab of shoyu with wasabi which seems to enhance its flavor.

The fish Erik gave me weighed approximately 3 pounds, already cleaned and scaled, and wrapped with paper towels and additional towels stuffed in it to absorb any blood or water to keep it as fresh as possible.  Man, I need to learn from Erik because when I give away, it’s left uncleaned and double bagged in plastic shopping bags.  The fish still had its yellow stripe and yellow fins but apparently much of its vibrancy was already lost when compared to the picture Erik took of it the day before.

 

 

 

 

I cut the fish into two fillets and sliced one into bite sized morsels to eat right away.  The white meat was slightly pink, much like papio.  I could tell from handling the meat that it was leaner than the farmed hamachi.  I could feel very little fat or oil on my hands.  I dipped the end of the sashimi into the shoyu and did see a small oil sheen form on the surface so there was obviously some fat in the meat.

The texture was definitely like hamachi.  Compared to papio, it was softer than white and omilu but very similar to yellow spot.  The perfect texture for sashimi.  I would say the fattiness of the hiramasa was also similar to yellow spot, although I recently had one from deeper and colder waters that was a little fattier than this hiramasa.  The flavor was distinctly hamachi without its sometimes overpowering oiliness.  I was surprised how great its flavor was, even though it contained less fat than hamachi.

I have to say, I really enjoyed the Hawaiian hiramasa and its unique characteristics.  It was similar yet so different from our other local fish.  It would definitely rank it up there as one of the better eating nearshore fish in our waters.  I hope you all get the chance to hook and sample one while they’re still around.

Nearshore fishing has been very slow!

January 29, 2018 By Scott 4 Comments

The winter cold water doldrums are in full effect now.  Our group has tried wade fishing, SUP oama trolling and deep water kayak fishing the last few weeks with very little to show for it.  My fish finder was reading 73 degrees on the surface in the mid-morning.  Average water temp in July is 80 degrees so the nearshore predators must have gone somewhere warm to wait out the winter cold snap.

On our last kayak/SUP trip, the fish finder marked clouds of bait at 100 ft but my 2 hook damashi with one ika strip only caught hage at the very bottom.  Frank trolled a fresh dead oama from 10 to 80 ft and nothing bit. That has never happened before at this spot.

 

 

 

 

 

I kept bouncing the damashi with ika on one of the two hooks as I worked my way back to land.  An occasional hage would hit the ika and leave the unbaited fly alone.  Then I hooked something in 20ft of water that fought a little differently. I was surprised to bring up a small weke nono in such shallow water.  Had it been larger I would have kept it for poke.  In the second photo you can see that it has a predator’s mouth like the obake weke, much larger than the common white weke.

Since the fishing has been unproductive, the guys want to surf and gather bait until the bite picks up again.  I won’t bore you with the surf trip reports but if you’re interested, I could do some brief bait gathering updates.  Anyone interested in that?

Failed kayak damashi attempt

December 21, 2017 By Scott 14 Comments

I had “accidentally” caught a nabeta on a 2 oz jig the last time out and hoped that a  damashi rig would be a lot more effective.  Found these packaged damashi rigs from my California party boat days but dealing with so many hooks concerned me.  I split the rigs in half, sort of, and limited the modified rigs to 2 hooks each.

Expecting the current to be slow on a projected light wind day, I used a 2 oz Ahi USA Assault jig with the treble hook cut off as the damashi weight about 2 ft before the bottom hook.  Added an assist hook to the top.

The winds were light on our paddle out and Frank immediately hooked up with two 12 inch omilu on frozen oama.  I put out a lipped sinking swimming plug when I reached 50 ft and had a screamer of a strike.  A fish jumped out of the water in the distance and I was hoping the long, skinny fish was another ono like Frank had caught a couple of weeks ago. Sadly, it was a tail wrapped aha which I video’d but am no longer giving those nasty fish any more media coverage.  With such a hot inshore bite we were anticipating some action in the deep.  It took a while to find what I think was the opelu school and they were scattered near the bottom in the 120 ft area.  Unlike the previous trips, they weren’t bunched up and thick, and just past them, there was a weird rip current churning the top of the water that took us on a bumpy ride out to sea.  We paddled back closer to shore and noticed the bait school was staying just on the inside edge of this rip.  Our weights didn’t get the damashi rig straight down through the strong current and after trying for more than an hr we paddled in a ways to look for nabeta.

More weirdness. Our damashi rig appeared to getting pulled to the east, but we weren’t drifting to the west.  Once again, the rigs weren’t straight up and down which made for sloping jigging of the flies.  Nothing bit our rigs and then the trade winds picked up and we had to paddle in to the protection of the inner reef.

Frank deployed another frozen oama and got bit right away.  Another off-season 12 inch omilu!  He was making it look too easy.  I joined him and whipped my swimming jig in the vicinity but bite ended.

I consulted my damashi senseis and asked why we did so badly.  They said our weights were too light for the strong current, my hooks were too far away from the weight, and when we fished the inside, there was probably a strong current pulling east with wind blowing west, holding our kayaks in place.  Bottom line, when the damashi isn’t getting down effectively, use more weight.  I’ll try 4 to 5 ounces next time, and make my lead about 5 inches from my bottom hook.  If we actually catch an opelu we’re not fully prepare to use it properly but we’ll deal with that bridge when we come to it.

If you guys have any damashi tips for us, please send them our way!

 

 

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